4 prong to 3 prong dryer wiring
#1
I'm trading out dryers and our recepticle is three prong. The dryer that we are installing used to have a 4 prong cord. Should I move the white wire on the dryer from the middle position to the green screw or leave it?
Reply
#2
Nevermind.... figured it didn't much matter and had the wifey plug in and turn it on
Reply
#3
(02-18-2018, 12:02 PM)GCG Wrote: Nevermind.... figured it didn't much matter and had the wifey plug in and turn it on

Better safe than sorry I always say.  Laughing
Reply
#4
Ground wires which are either green or bare end up at exactly the same place in your electrical panel as white wires or neutral wires.
The difference is that white ( neutral wires) carry current and ground wires don't....unless there is a short.

With Ranges and dryers it used to be OK for the neutral and ground to be the same wire.

So basically any ground wire today should be connected to the metal frame of what ever equipment it is. And the white wire is connected to the load.

Although white wires (neutral) are not HOT. They still carry current when ever the load is turned on. So while it's true you would not measure a voltage to ground like a HOT wire.
A white wire can still shock or even kill you IF you were connected in series. or lets say you cut the white wire and then held each end of it in a different hand.

I sure that clears a lot up Razz Rolling Eyes
Reply
#5
The issue of the white wire, I am going to remain neutral on this.
Reply
#6
Three prongs, four prongs, whatever it takes.
Reply
#7
Please make sure that the bonding jumper between the neutral and ground is there if using a 3 wire plug
Reply
#8
(02-20-2018, 06:04 AM)oregon 67 Wrote: Please make sure that the bonding jumper between the neutral and ground is there if using a 3 wire plug

Good point.

 [Image: 2014-11-22_190015_3-wire_dryer_connection.jpg]
Reply
#9
I didn't want our friends to get the curlies straightened by a fault..
Reply
#10
(02-20-2018, 11:20 AM)tvguy Wrote:
(02-20-2018, 06:04 AM)oregon 67 Wrote: Please make sure that the bonding jumper between the neutral and ground is there if using a 3 wire plug

Good point.

 [Image: 2014-11-22_190015_3-wire_dryer_connection.jpg]

I f there are four wires that means you have both neutral and a ground.
This would be required if the dyer need to have a 110 circuit (timer or a light, etc that ran on 110 VAC )

If the dryer only has three terminals then the neutral is not needed and the center wire would be ground and would connect to the chassis of the dryer already.
No need to connect a wire to the chasis as TV_guy has shown.

For safety you could connect the chassis to a local ground with a wire. Usually the screw on the face plate of the electrical box. This is a redundant ground.
Reply
#11
(02-20-2018, 06:29 PM)chuck white Wrote:
(02-20-2018, 11:20 AM)tvguy Wrote:
(02-20-2018, 06:04 AM)oregon 67 Wrote: Please make sure that the bonding jumper between the neutral and ground is there if using a 3 wire plug

Good point.

 [Image: 2014-11-22_190015_3-wire_dryer_connection.jpg]

I f there are four wires that means you have both neutral and a ground.
This would be required if the dyer need to have a 110 circuit (timer or a light, etc that ran on 110 VAC )

If the dryer only has three terminals then the neutral is not needed and the center wire would be ground and would connect to the chassis of the dryer already.
No need to connect a wire to the chasis as TV_guy has shown.

For safety you could connect the chassis to a local ground with a wire. Usually the screw on the face plate of the electrical box. This is a redundant ground.
 The drawing shows a NEW dryer that's meant to be used with a 4 wire pigtail but someone is using an old three wire pigtail.
On this new dryer if you don't bond the neutral to the dryers metal frame you risk the chance of the metal frame of the dryer being energized.With old dryers the neutral is ALREADY bonded to the frame.

If the dryer only has three terminals then the neutral is not needed

That's baloney. All dryers need a neutral because they have a 120 volt motor.

For safety you could connect the chassis to a local ground with a wire. Usually the screw on the face plate of the electrical box. This is a redundant ground.


Dude!!! where are you getting this shit? Maybe stick to what you know?
Reply
#12
Well some advise, keeps me in the money.
Reply
#13
(02-21-2018, 08:41 PM)oregon 67 Wrote: Well some advise, keeps me in the money.

Explain please? I haven't a clue what that means LOL.. You haven't been around for quite a while right?
Reply
#14
(02-20-2018, 08:30 PM)tvguy Wrote:
(02-20-2018, 06:29 PM)chuck white Wrote:
(02-20-2018, 11:20 AM)tvguy Wrote:
(02-20-2018, 06:04 AM)oregon 67 Wrote: Please make sure that the bonding jumper between the neutral and ground is there if using a 3 wire plug

Good point.

 [Image: 2014-11-22_190015_3-wire_dryer_connection.jpg]

I f there are four wires that means you have both neutral and a ground.
This would be required if the dyer need to have a 110 circuit (timer or a light, etc that ran on 110 VAC )

If the dryer only has three terminals then the neutral is not needed and the center wire would be ground and would connect to the chassis of the dryer already.
No need to connect a wire to the chasis as TV_guy has shown.

For safety you could connect the chassis to a local ground with a wire. Usually the screw on the face plate of the electrical box. This is a redundant ground.
 The drawing shows a NEW dryer that's meant to be used with a 4 wire pigtail but someone is using an old three wire pigtail.
On this new dryer if you don't bond the neutral to the dryers metal frame you risk the chance of the metal frame of the dryer being energized.With old dryers the neutral is ALREADY bonded to the frame.

If the dryer only has three terminals then the neutral is not needed

That's baloney. All dryers need a neutral because they have a 120 volt motor.

For safety you could connect the chassis to a local ground with a wire. Usually the screw on the face plate of the electrical box. This is a redundant ground.


Dude!!! where are you getting this shit? Maybe stick to what you know?

I would never connect a chassis to neutral.
It is not ground.
It carries a current and can be a few volts above ground.
If the neutral wire opened up you could get bit.



Motors can be wired for 220 or 120 Vac.
Reply
#15
(02-21-2018, 10:29 PM)tvguy Wrote:
(02-21-2018, 08:41 PM)oregon 67 Wrote: Well some advise, keeps me in the money.

Explain please? I haven't a clue what that means LOL.. You haven't been around for quite a while right?

I am in the trade tv. Been running hard core service for a long time. I read postings a scroll on. The whole political landscape is pretty much way over the top. On facebook sticking to local issues.
Reply
#16
(02-21-2018, 11:10 PM)chuck white Wrote:
(02-20-2018, 08:30 PM)tvguy Wrote:
(02-20-2018, 06:29 PM)chuck white Wrote:
(02-20-2018, 11:20 AM)tvguy Wrote:
(02-20-2018, 06:04 AM)oregon 67 Wrote: Please make sure that the bonding jumper between the neutral and ground is there if using a 3 wire plug

Good point.

 [Image: 2014-11-22_190015_3-wire_dryer_connection.jpg]

I f there are four wires that means you have both neutral and a ground.
This would be required if the dyer need to have a 110 circuit (timer or a light, etc that ran on 110 VAC )

If the dryer only has three terminals then the neutral is not needed and the center wire would be ground and would connect to the chassis of the dryer already.
No need to connect a wire to the chasis as TV_guy has shown.

For safety you could connect the chassis to a local ground with a wire. Usually the screw on the face plate of the electrical box. This is a redundant ground.
 The drawing shows a NEW dryer that's meant to be used with a 4 wire pigtail but someone is using an old three wire pigtail.
On this new dryer if you don't bond the neutral to the dryers metal frame you risk the chance of the metal frame of the dryer being energized.With old dryers the neutral is ALREADY bonded to the frame.

If the dryer only has three terminals then the neutral is not needed

That's baloney. All dryers need a neutral because they have a 120 volt motor.

For safety you could connect the chassis to a local ground with a wire. Usually the screw on the face plate of the electrical box. This is a redundant ground.


Dude!!! where are you getting this shit? Maybe stick to what you know?

I would never connect a chassis to neutral.
It is not ground.
It carries a current and can be a few volts above ground.
If the neutral wire opened up you could get bit.



Motors can be wired for 220 or 120 Vac.
From 1942 until 1996 it was legal to use a 3 wire system for clothes dryers and cooking appliances.

It is actually the grounded conductor.

It carries the imbalance current and is always equal. ie 208/120 , 120/240 , 480/277 , or 600/ 347.

If it has different readings between phases or legs it is rotten and a hazard.

If it is truly open your shit doesn't work or burns up. That's a different subject.

Have a good day folks
Reply
#17
(02-22-2018, 06:24 AM)oregon 67 Wrote:
(02-21-2018, 11:10 PM)chuck white Wrote:
(02-20-2018, 08:30 PM)tvguy Wrote:
(02-20-2018, 06:29 PM)chuck white Wrote:
(02-20-2018, 11:20 AM)tvguy Wrote: Good point.

 [Image: 2014-11-22_190015_3-wire_dryer_connection.jpg]

I f there are four wires that means you have both neutral and a ground.
This would be required if the dyer need to have a 110 circuit (timer or a light, etc that ran on 110 VAC )

If the dryer only has three terminals then the neutral is not needed and the center wire would be ground and would connect to the chassis of the dryer already.
No need to connect a wire to the chasis as TV_guy has shown.

For safety you could connect the chassis to a local ground with a wire. Usually the screw on the face plate of the electrical box. This is a redundant ground.
 The drawing shows a NEW dryer that's meant to be used with a 4 wire pigtail but someone is using an old three wire pigtail.
On this new dryer if you don't bond the neutral to the dryers metal frame you risk the chance of the metal frame of the dryer being energized.With old dryers the neutral is ALREADY bonded to the frame.

If the dryer only has three terminals then the neutral is not needed

That's baloney. All dryers need a neutral because they have a 120 volt motor.

For safety you could connect the chassis to a local ground with a wire. Usually the screw on the face plate of the electrical box. This is a redundant ground.


Dude!!! where are you getting this shit? Maybe stick to what you know?

I would never connect a chassis to neutral.
It is not ground.
It carries a current and can be a few volts above ground.
If the neutral wire opened up you could get bit.



Motors can be wired for 220 or 120 Vac.
From 1942 until 1996 it was legal to use a 3 wire system for clothes dryers and cooking appliances.

It is actually the grounded conductor.

It carries the imbalance current and is always equal. ie 208/120 , 120/240 , 480/277 , or 600/ 347.

If it has different readings between phases or legs it is rotten and a hazard.

If it is truly open your shit doesn't work or burns up. That's a different subject.

Have a good day folks

So I did what is described here: 

http://www.houseofhepworths.com/2015/10/...ryer-plug/

The 4th photo from the top shows what the 4 prong looked like before I removed it. Then I removed the white "jumper" wire from the center and attached it to the green "ground" screw... because the green wire is gone. As far as I know, (which I don't), that white wire that I moved is probably just going from 1 ground to another.
Reply
#18
(02-21-2018, 11:10 PM)chuck white Wrote:
(02-20-2018, 08:30 PM)tvguy Wrote:
(02-20-2018, 06:29 PM)chuck white Wrote:
(02-20-2018, 11:20 AM)tvguy Wrote:
(02-20-2018, 06:04 AM)oregon 67 Wrote: Please make sure that the bonding jumper between the neutral and ground is there if using a 3 wire plug

Good point.

 [Image: 2014-11-22_190015_3-wire_dryer_connection.jpg]

I f there are four wires that means you have both neutral and a ground.
This would be required if the dyer need to have a 110 circuit (timer or a light, etc that ran on 110 VAC )

If the dryer only has three terminals then the neutral is not needed and the center wire would be ground and would connect to the chassis of the dryer already.
No need to connect a wire to the chasis as TV_guy has shown.

For safety you could connect the chassis to a local ground with a wire. Usually the screw on the face plate of the electrical box. This is a redundant ground.
 The drawing shows a NEW dryer that's meant to be used with a 4 wire pigtail but someone is using an old three wire pigtail.
On this new dryer if you don't bond the neutral to the dryers metal frame you risk the chance of the metal frame of the dryer being energized.With old dryers the neutral is ALREADY bonded to the frame.

If the dryer only has three terminals then the neutral is not needed

That's baloney. All dryers need a neutral because they have a 120 volt motor.

For safety you could connect the chassis to a local ground with a wire. Usually the screw on the face plate of the electrical box. This is a redundant ground.


Dude!!! where are you getting this shit? Maybe stick to what you know?

I would never connect a chassis to neutral.
It is not ground.
It carries a current and can be a few volts above ground.
If the neutral wire opened up you could get bit.



Motors can be wired for 220 or 120 Vac.
I would never connect a chassis to neutral.

They have been making dryers and the outlets for dryers and ranges for at least 75 years.That's the way they ALL were made until relatively recently.
I know a neutral carries current I said as much

Motors can be wired for 220 or 120 Vac.

So what? The motors in dryers are 120 volt. I don't care how they CAN be wired. I totally doubt a dryer motor is dual voltage like an air compressor. It's 120 from the factory.
That's why you have to have a neutral.


If the neutral wire opened up you could get bit.

 
And? the same is true with ANY neutral if there is a load on the circuit.
Reply
#19
(02-22-2018, 06:24 AM)oregon 67 Wrote:
(02-21-2018, 11:10 PM)chuck white Wrote:
(02-20-2018, 08:30 PM)tvguy Wrote:
(02-20-2018, 06:29 PM)chuck white Wrote:
(02-20-2018, 11:20 AM)tvguy Wrote: Good point.

 [Image: 2014-11-22_190015_3-wire_dryer_connection.jpg]

I f there are four wires that means you have both neutral and a ground.
This would be required if the dyer need to have a 110 circuit (timer or a light, etc that ran on 110 VAC )

If the dryer only has three terminals then the neutral is not needed and the center wire would be ground and would connect to the chassis of the dryer already.
No need to connect a wire to the chasis as TV_guy has shown.

For safety you could connect the chassis to a local ground with a wire. Usually the screw on the face plate of the electrical box. This is a redundant ground.
 The drawing shows a NEW dryer that's meant to be used with a 4 wire pigtail but someone is using an old three wire pigtail.
On this new dryer if you don't bond the neutral to the dryers metal frame you risk the chance of the metal frame of the dryer being energized.With old dryers the neutral is ALREADY bonded to the frame.

If the dryer only has three terminals then the neutral is not needed

That's baloney. All dryers need a neutral because they have a 120 volt motor.

For safety you could connect the chassis to a local ground with a wire. Usually the screw on the face plate of the electrical box. This is a redundant ground.


Dude!!! where are you getting this shit? Maybe stick to what you know?

I would never connect a chassis to neutral.
It is not ground.
It carries a current and can be a few volts above ground.
If the neutral wire opened up you could get bit.



Motors can be wired for 220 or 120 Vac.
From 1942 until 1996 it was legal to use a 3 wire system for clothes dryers and cooking appliances.

It is actually the grounded conductor.

It carries the imbalance current and is always equal. ie 208/120 , 120/240 , 480/277 , or 600/ 347.

If it has different readings between phases or legs it is rotten and a hazard.

If it is truly open your shit doesn't work or burns up. That's a different subject.

Have a good day folks
Thanks. I didn't see your post until after I explained the same thing to Chuck.Smiling
Reply
#20
I don't see how this matches TV drawing at all.

[Image: 3.jpg]
or the other   three wire version

[Image: 6.jpg]

Unless that white wire is connected internally to the neutral.

If the neutral opens up, then hot side will go thru the 110 V motor energizing the whole frame of the washer.
I hate to be the return path for that. I'd rather float the frame, or tie it to a earth ground with a separate wire.

[Image: Washer-Grnd.jpg]
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)