4 prong to 3 prong dryer wiring
#21
I DID it!

[Image: iStock-1171447681-650x454.jpg]
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#22
(02-22-2018, 11:27 PM)chuck white Wrote: I don't see how this matches TV drawing at all.

[Image: 3.jpg]
or the other   three wire version

[Image: 6.jpg]

Unless that white wire is connected internally to the neutral.

If the neutral opens up, then hot side will go thru the 110 V motor energizing the whole frame of the washer.
I hate to be the return path for that. I'd rather float the frame, or tie it to a earth ground with a separate wire.

[Image: Washer-Grnd.jpg]

As I mentioned in my post, eliminate the green wire and move the white wire to that green screw. Then I hooked up my 3 wire pigtail to the 3 screws. I believe that is essentially what is shown is the 2 diagrams. For the record, that doesn't match the diagram but it does match how my old dryer was wired.
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#23
GCG....If you have a NEW dryer it should be set up for a 4 wire cord. And you are connecting it with a three wire cord.
So it should be wired exactly as below.


  [Image: 2014-11-22_190015_3-wire_dryer_connection.jpg]
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#24
(02-22-2018, 11:27 PM)chuck white Wrote: I don't see how this matches TV drawing at all.

[Image: 3.jpg]
or the other   three wire version

[Image: 6.jpg]

Unless that white wire is connected internally to the neutral.

If the neutral opens up, then hot side will go thru the 110 V motor energizing the whole frame of the washer.
I hate to be the return path for that. I'd rather float the frame, or tie it to a earth ground with a separate wire.

[Image: Washer-Grnd.jpg]

You posted these pics, who said it matched what I posted? The top picture is a new dryer with a 4 wire cord wired properly.The second picture makes no sense to me.The third picture is a fucking washing machine.


  If the neutral opens up, then hot side will go thru the 110 V motor energizing the whole frame of the washer.

Yes theoretically but there are tens of millions older three wire feeds for dryers and ranges where the neural and ground are shared . And I have never heard of that happening.
Maybe because if the neutral opens up the dryer stops working and then they get it fixed.
 
I hate to be the return path for that. I'd rather float the frame, or tie it to a earth ground with a separate wire.




  I'd rather float the frame, or tie it to a earth ground with a separate wire.

You would have to figure out how to separate the neutral on the dryer from the frame. If not you would be bonding the ground wire to the grounded wire ( neutral) .That's against code. That should only be done at the main electrical panel
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#25
(02-23-2018, 12:35 PM)tvguy Wrote:
(02-22-2018, 11:27 PM)chuck white Wrote: I don't see how this matches TV drawing at all.


or the other   three wire version



Unless that white wire is connected internally to the neutral.

If the neutral opens up, then hot side will go thru the 110 V motor energizing the whole frame of the washer.
I hate to be the return path for that. I'd rather float the frame, or tie it to a earth ground with a separate wire.

[Image: Washer-Grnd.jpg]

You posted these pics, who said it matched what I posted? The top picture is a new dryer with a 4 wire cord wired properly.The second picture makes no sense to me.The third picture is a fucking washing machine.

Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing

Funniest internet comment I've read this week!
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#26
I know it's a washing machine, but I have the same wire on my dryer. I just couldn't find a picture.

I looked at some wiring diagrams of dryer and can't believe the industry got away with that for so long.

I think they can get away with it because it's the only thing on the circuit.

I would never attach neutral to a metal body in anything I make.

If you had a GFI plug and you grounded neutral, it would trip the GFI (I know the 220V dryer does not have GFI)
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#27
(02-23-2018, 02:00 PM)chuck white Wrote: I know it's a washing machine, but I have the same wire on my dryer. I just couldn't find a picture.

I looked at some wiring diagrams of dryer and can't believe the industry got away with that for so long.

I think they can get away with it because it's the only thing on the circuit.

I would never attach neutral to a metal body in anything I make.

If you had a GFI plug and you grounded neutral, it would trip the GFI  (I know the 220V dryer does not have GFI)

Yes yes and yes. Your concerns are exactly why the NEC changed the codes. But if it was all that dangerous the codes would have been changed long ago.
In all of my years I've never heard of one single person getting shocked because their dryer or Range had a three wire connection.
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#28
(02-23-2018, 02:44 PM)tvguy Wrote:
(02-23-2018, 02:00 PM)chuck white Wrote: I know it's a washing machine, but I have the same wire on my dryer. I just couldn't find a picture.

I looked at some wiring diagrams of dryer and can't believe the industry got away with that for so long.

I think they can get away with it because it's the only thing on the circuit.

I would never attach neutral to a metal body in anything I make.

If you had a GFI plug and you grounded neutral, it would trip the GFI  (I know the 220V dryer does not have GFI)

Yes yes and yes. Your concerns are exactly why the NEC changed the codes. But if it was all that dangerous the codes would have been changed long ago.
In all of my years I've never heard of one single person getting shocked because their dryer or Range had a three wire connection.

It's only 120 anyway, not like we live in Europe, with 220V.

Have you ever come across isolated neutral? Not grounded, but still tied to the center of the hot sides.
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#29
(02-23-2018, 12:24 PM)tvguy Wrote: GCG....If you have a NEW dryer it should be set up for a 4 wire cord. And you are connecting it with a three wire cord.
So it should be wired exactly as below.


  [Image: 2014-11-22_190015_3-wire_dryer_connection.jpg]
FINE! I'll fix it when I get home. But please answer this question: The white wire in the 1st picture of Chucks post above.... the one with a 1/2 loop.... what is the unseen end hooked up to? Because I hooked the visible end of that wire to the green screw.
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#30
(02-24-2018, 01:07 AM)chuck white Wrote:
(02-23-2018, 02:44 PM)tvguy Wrote:
(02-23-2018, 02:00 PM)chuck white Wrote: I know it's a washing machine, but I have the same wire on my dryer. I just couldn't find a picture.

I looked at some wiring diagrams of dryer and can't believe the industry got away with that for so long.

I think they can get away with it because it's the only thing on the circuit.

I would never attach neutral to a metal body in anything I make.

If you had a GFI plug and you grounded neutral, it would trip the GFI  (I know the 220V dryer does not have GFI)

Yes yes and yes. Your concerns are exactly why the NEC changed the codes. But if it was all that dangerous the codes would have been changed long ago.
In all of my years I've never heard of one single person getting shocked because their dryer or Range had a three wire connection.

It's only 120 anyway, not like we live in Europe, with 220V.

Have you ever come across isolated neutral? Not grounded, but still tied to the center of the hot sides.
I don't understand the question Sad
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#31
(02-24-2018, 08:03 AM)GCG Wrote:
(02-23-2018, 12:24 PM)tvguy Wrote: GCG....If you have a NEW dryer it should be set up for a 4 wire cord. And you are connecting it with a three wire cord.
So it should be wired exactly as below.


  [Image: 2014-11-22_190015_3-wire_dryer_connection.jpg]
FINE! I'll fix it when I get home. But please answer this question: The white wire in the 1st picture of Chucks post above.... the one with a 1/2 loop.... what is the unseen end hooked up to? Because I hooked the visible end of that wire to the green screw.

 After looking at a few pics of new dryers I believe the white wire (the one with a 1/2 loop) is a grounding wire and it should be green to avoid confusion but dryer manufacturers are just stupid.

I saw several pics of NEW dryers with the same WHITE wire connected to the green screw on the frame. So you should be good to go.
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#32
If in doubt just grab the frame of the washer with one hand and a water pipe with the other.
If you got it wrong you'll feel a tingle.
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#33
(02-24-2018, 02:53 PM)chuck white Wrote: If in doubt just grab the frame of the washer with one hand and  a water pipe with the other.
If you got it wrong you'll feel a tingle.
I don't think so. Not unless the neutral from the dryer to the washer is open.UNLESS the water pipe is a better conductor than a number 8 copper or a number 6 aluminum wire that goes straight to the panel. And I doubt that.

Plus your body is not as good of a conductor and the dryer feed. Path of least resistance rule.

I rented a house once where the old cast iron drain pipe for the kitchen sink was a much better ground than the water pipe. Or the water pipes were not bonded to the neutral at the service. I don't remember.
Anyway there was a voltage between the drain pipe and the water pipe that would shock you pretty damn good.

You would think the metal sink would have bonded the drain pipe to the water lines. But there's a rubber washer that isolates it Razz
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#34
(02-24-2018, 02:53 PM)chuck white Wrote: If in doubt just grab the frame of the washer with one hand and  a water pipe with the other.
If you got it wrong you'll feel a tingle.

Th truth is that the way GCG has it wired now would still work.

Just think of it like the main service panel. Where all the green grounding wires (or bare) are connect to the same terminal bar which is bonded to the panel.

You COULD take a white neutral from a branch circuit and screw it right to the metal can and it would still work perfectly.
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#35
(02-24-2018, 04:19 PM)tvguy Wrote:
(02-24-2018, 02:53 PM)chuck white Wrote: If in doubt just grab the frame of the washer with one hand and  a water pipe with the other.
If you got it wrong you'll feel a tingle.

Th truth is that the way GCG has it wired now would still work.

Just think of it like the main service panel. Where all the green grounding wires (or bare) are connect to the same terminal bar which is bonded to the panel.

You COULD take a white neutral from a branch circuit and screw it right to the metal can and it would still work perfectly.

Now I have heard of people getting shocked from the chassis of the circuit breaker box, when the neutral opened up under the meter.
(they had a 3 foot grounding rod, Laughing )
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#36
(02-24-2018, 07:23 PM)chuck white Wrote:
(02-24-2018, 04:19 PM)tvguy Wrote:
(02-24-2018, 02:53 PM)chuck white Wrote: If in doubt just grab the frame of the washer with one hand and  a water pipe with the other.
If you got it wrong you'll feel a tingle.

Th truth is that the way GCG has it wired now would still work.

Just think of it like the main service panel. Where all the green grounding wires (or bare) are connect to the same terminal bar which is bonded to the panel.

You COULD take a white neutral from a branch circuit and screw it right to the metal can and it would still work perfectly.

Now I have heard of people getting shocked from the chassis of the circuit breaker box, when the neutral opened up under the meter.
(they had a 3 foot grounding rod, Laughing )
And like me. No metal water pipes to bond the neutral to.. And probably no ground rod at all. They weren't required for many years.
Most don't do jack shit anyway which is why the code was changed to having two ground rods 6 feet apart.
Even then they don't always present a good return path for fault current.
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#37
(02-25-2018, 12:09 PM)tvguy Wrote:
(02-24-2018, 07:23 PM)chuck white Wrote:
(02-24-2018, 04:19 PM)tvguy Wrote:
(02-24-2018, 02:53 PM)chuck white Wrote: If in doubt just grab the frame of the washer with one hand and  a water pipe with the other.
If you got it wrong you'll feel a tingle.

Th truth is that the way GCG has it wired now would still work.

Just think of it like the main service panel. Where all the green grounding wires (or bare) are connect to the same terminal bar which is bonded to the panel.

You COULD take a white neutral from a branch circuit and screw it right to the metal can and it would still work perfectly.

Now I have heard of people getting shocked from the chassis of the circuit breaker box, when the neutral opened up under the meter.
(they had a 3 foot grounding rod, Laughing )
And like me. No metal water pipes to bond the neutral to.. And probably no ground rod at all. They weren't required for many years.
Most don't do jack shit anyway which is why the code was changed to having two ground rods 6 feet apart.
Even then they don't always present a good return path for fault current.

I thought the neutral was tied to ground at the utility pole and the green wire was tied to the ground rod at the house. Or something like that.
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#38
(02-25-2018, 12:19 PM)Cuzz Wrote:
(02-25-2018, 12:09 PM)tvguy Wrote:
(02-24-2018, 07:23 PM)chuck white Wrote:
(02-24-2018, 04:19 PM)tvguy Wrote:
(02-24-2018, 02:53 PM)chuck white Wrote: If in doubt just grab the frame of the washer with one hand and  a water pipe with the other.
If you got it wrong you'll feel a tingle.

Th truth is that the way GCG has it wired now would still work.

Just think of it like the main service panel. Where all the green grounding wires (or bare) are connect to the same terminal bar which is bonded to the panel.

You COULD take a white neutral from a branch circuit and screw it right to the metal can and it would still work perfectly.

Now I have heard of people getting shocked from the chassis of the circuit breaker box, when the neutral opened up under the meter.
(they had a 3 foot grounding rod, Laughing )
And like me. No metal water pipes to bond the neutral to.. And probably no ground rod at all. They weren't required for many years.
Most don't do jack shit anyway which is why the code was changed to having two ground rods 6 feet apart.
Even then they don't always present a good return path for fault current.

I thought the neutral was tied to ground at the utility pole and the green wire was tied to the ground rod at the house. Or something like that.

They tie ground and neutral together at the box, as well as grounding neutral at the pole.
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